Chunari of Rajasthan

Chunari is a special technique of fabric dyeing practiced in Rajasthan. It involves a combination of the tie-and-dye process and direct printing.

The famous Black Chunari (tie dyed) with the red borders is mainly used at the time of Diwali (festival of lights).

The fabric is prepared for the dying process by dipping it in water containing equal parts of castor oil and saline earth. The fabric is repeatedly soaked in the solution and dried for about 10 to 15 times, and finally washed with clean water. Wooden blocks containing designs are prepared. The designs are lined with nails. These wooden blocks are pressed against the fabric causing an imprint of designs to be created in a raised form due to the nails. The portions of the fabric, that stand out due to the nails, are tied with a string into knots and coated with a paste that prevents the percolation of a dye. The knots are removed after the fabric is dyed. The non-dyed portions created by the knots form the desired patterns on the cloth. The dyes are prepared from natural substances.

Textile and fabric coloring and dying can be seen at length in the communities of Leelgarhs and Rangrez. The Chunari and Bandhej (the art of tying a small point on the cloth by threads and later dyed with the required colours . After drying when opened, there is a small circle in the white splashed around the fabric)is known as tie and dye. Jodhpur, Jaipur, Bikaner are famous for this. In addition, the art of embellished fabrics with embroidery using thread-work, mirror work or gold brocade is prevalent.

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