In Rajasthan, `Applique` is sometimes done with embroidery to give a magical style of decoration. This is done on almost all things such as clothes, bed sheets, lampshades and wall hangings. The two the notable `Applique` works of Rajasthan are `Gota` and `Kinari work`. These `Gota` and `Kinari` are golden and silver coloured pieces and laces those are sewn on the cloth. The Muslim craftsman generally prepares these. Here in `gota` work, the embroidery is made on a velvet cloth, which gives it a unique look. The `gota` work uses the `Applique` works in both the classical and folk designs. The `gota` work is mainly done on the costumes for women. Khandela in Shekhawati mainly prepares these items.
Preparing geometrical models from square shaped coloured textile pieces in which dark earthy colours are used generally makes `Applique`. This is mainly done on quilts, known as `rallis`.
The `Applique` work has its origin back into the nineteenth century. Ancient Muslims used to practice this art. The signs of earlier `Applique` work can be seen in many cotton and silk clothes, bandhani (Tie and dye) or in patola cloth.
`Applique` work of Rajasthan is mainly done on stunning red, purple, yellow, black, green and white fabric. The base is prepared first in the square shape, rectangular and circle shape or even in oval forms sometimes. This works as the background for that art piece. The `Applique` motifs of contrasting colours are then cut into various shapes like that of animals, birds, flowers, leaves celestial bodies and geometric shapes. These variously shaped motifs are now stitched on the base cloths in artistic ways.
Giving several folds makes raised motifs of the `Applique`. The intricate stitches such as bakhia, guntha, turpa, chikan and other embroidery techniques are the main elegant part of the `Applique` artwork. Recently, the use of small and bright mirror pieces has become popular in Rajasthan. The last work of the `Applique` is the stitching of the borders.
In Rajasthan, while preparing an `Applique`, the family gets involved. Those who are more experienced in the family do the intricate designs and the younger and less experience ones do the stitching of the borders and make the base clothes. The `Applique` work can also be seen in daily use items also like bags, lampshades and tablemats. It is also done on blouses, petticoats, gowns and other garments. The Barmer `Applique` is traditionally sewn on bedspreads of black and brown bases while the motifs are of natural scenes. In Rajasthan, women of six villages prepare these `Appliqués`. It takes about one month to prepare a complete bedspread. The Barefoot College of Rajasthan teaches the Tilonia `Applique` to the women and it is adapted from `Mandanas`, which are traditional patterns on floors in Rajasthan.