The most well-known Bengal Silk sari, which carry its legendary name, is the Baluchari sari - a product of exquisite design and fabulous weaving technique. Produced in the town of Baluchar in Murshidabad district of West Bengal, Baluchari sarees are nation and world wide popular because of their artistic and unique design. 'Baluchari' is one of the most popular weaving techniques of Bengal.
These are about 200 year old. The sarees look similar to Banarasi sarees. There is only one difference between the two sarees, Baluchari sarees use only silk threads and Banarasi sarees do use zari threads. The borders of the sarees depict stories from Mahabharata and Ramayana. The field of the saree is covered with small butis and a beautiful floral design runs across the edges.
The Baluchari sarees are inspired from Jamdanis of Dhaka.
Fabric in Baluchari Sari : These sarees are made of silk and woven on looms. Silk weaving of Baluchar continues to be an important landmark of Bengal's handloom tradition. Baluchari sarees are woven in Bengal silks which are much acclaimed in the world over, since ancient times. Like silk, cotton baluchari sarees are also woven in a fascinating and exquisite range. The cloth is very fine and transparent with a soft drape.
Design and Colours: Baluchari sarees essentially have a silk base with silk brocaded designs with respect to their colours, where inspite of a rich composition, the Baluchar bootidars almost avoid strong contrasts. The sari has large flowing kalka motifs in the centre surrounded by narrow ornamental borders. These are framed by a series of figural motifs worked in rows around the kalkas. These motifs are woven diagonally and are worked in four alternating colours, white, blue, yellow, red and green on a shaded background.
The intricately carved terracotta temples of Bishnupur provide ample inspiration for the weavers who reproduce whole epics on the pallu of the sari.
The motifs are entirely in silver zari. The most distinctive feature of Baluchari sarees is their elaborate borders and pallu.
The various designs depicting narrative folktales in the pallu of the sarees are as:
A woman riding a horse holding a rose in one hand with her plait flying behind her.
The Kalka design or the cone motif is often surrounded with floral borders.
Large floral motifs interspersed with flowering shrubs.
Pleasure boat, with two lovebirds on top.
Traditional muslim court scenes.
Women smoking hookah.
The classic Baluchari has scenes from the religious epics of India, legends of Ramayana and Mahabharata are also depicted.
